Toro Toro - National park

After taking a (freezing cold) night bus to Cochabamba, then changing to a minibus at 4am, we started on our way to Toro Toro. The journey took 4 hours and led us through a dried up river bed and zigzagging up and down through the mountains. Upon arrival we checked into a hostel and went for a stroll round the small town and out past yet more dinosaur footprints towards a huge canyon. We met a guide who informed us that we needed a guide to do this tour so we turned back and did the route the other way to avoid being sent back. This turned out to be a recurring problem in the next days.... On the second day we attempted to walk up to a huge cave but again were informed that we couldn´t visit it without a guide. After a bit of discussion with the ranger, he agreed to show us into the entrance of the cave so we could at least take a look. Apparently if you don´t hire a guide,you also don´t need to pay the national park entrance fee..... strange Bolivian logic?!...